If you asked a Mexican to sum up Michoacán in one word, they would probably say “carnitas”.
Like most Mexican cuisine, carnitas are unpretentious, cheap, and typically served in small, family-run establishments or on the street. Translating to ‘little meats’, carnitas are a pork dish synonymous with the state of Michoacán and a culinary tradition that goes back generations. The roots of carnitas can be traced to the arrival of the Spanish, who brought with them Catholicism, smallpox, and pigs.
Legend has it that Hernan Cortes hosted a fancy banquet to celebrate the fall of Tenochtitlan (Mexico City). He cooked a pig in all that was available – its own lard. To appeal to his new constituents, he served the dish with corn tortillas. Even though the accuracy of this story is sketchy at best, it’s indisputable that carnitas were perfected in Michoacán.
Traditional Michoacán carnitas are cooked in large copper pots. On our travels, we passed through a town called Santa Clara de Cobre (of copper) that is devoted to making these. Today, some very brave (or stupid) chefs claim steel pots are more effective for carnitas. Although Michoacános are incredibly welcoming and hospitable, it is not advisable to fuck with their culinary traditions. To save a sicario a long trip to Central Australia, I’ll just say the copper pots are superior.
How to order carnitas
Like many cuisines in Mexico, there is a knack for ordering carnitas, that can be daunting for foreigners.
Firstly, you ask for what cut of meat you want.
Common cuts include:
Maciza: Otherwise known as the ‘gringo cut’. Leaner cut and less fatty. Seen by Mexicans as the least flavourful.
Costilla: Ribs
Pancita: Belly meat and fat
Chicharron: Deep-fried skin
Chamorro: Leg meat
Cueritos: Skin (not deep fried)
Trompa: Face meat
Being gringos, if we didn’t indicate otherwise, we were usually served maciza. After three months in Mexico, our go-to order was a mix of maciza and chamorro, with a few pieces of chicharron on the side. As we returned to our chosen carnita joint every other day in Patzcuaro, the vendor started adding a little of what she considered the tastiest cuts for us to try. There began our carnitas education.
Secondly, you need to decide how much carnitas to order by weight, and how many tortillas. You could roll up and ask for a few tacos like the locals – who seem to continuously eat a little bit of everything. But if you’ve got time and like a big lunch like Leisa and I, a quarter of a kilo was more than enough. That said, if you’re on the piss or want leftovers I would recommend half a kilo. Typically, carnitas are served with salsa (onion, tomato, coriander) and sometimes an assortment of pickled vegetables.
Finally, be patient, especially at the popular places. Whether it be a restaurant or a street vendor up a back alley, Mexicans don’t discriminate and will gladly wait an hour for their favourite carnitas. As someone very susceptible to ‘hanger’ (anger caused by hunger), I struggled with this.
A few months ago, I was drinking with a local friend in the neighbouring state of Guanajuato. He told me food is a great leveller in Mexican society. Despite being drunk at the time, I never forgot this. So whether you are a shoe shiner, avocado farmer, or a narco, you’ll still be taking time out to enjoy carnitas – the pride of Michoacán.
