Island hopping with gout.

It began with a niggle in my big toe. At first, I blamed it on the running, but the pain got worse, like walking on shards of glass. A blood test confirmed it was gout.

The doctor said I couldn't consume seafood, red meat or alcohol, a hard pill to swallow two days before Christmas. I would be flying to the Philippines in three days, and at that point, I could barely walk.

Cebu City

Over the years, I’ve had the privilege of travelling to destinations with great cuisine, and until now, I've never been restricted by what I can eat.

Arriving at Cebu airport, my heart sank as we were greeted by a giant poster of Lechon (suckling pig). While standing in line at immigration, I kept reminding myself that travelling is about shifting routines and challenging perspectives.

That evening, I was limping around the central night market on the hunt for a dish without pork or seafood. There wasn't much available, and I was in a shitty mood. We were delayed at the airport, and I hadn’t eaten lunch. I came back to the table to find Leisa with a plate of lechon and a mango saag. After a long day in transit, my willpower was waning.

Moalboal

The next day, we travelled south from Cebu City to the seaside town of Moalboal. After three hours in the car, my foot had swollen up, a painful penance for the previous night's dietary choices.

We threw ourselves into activities and a routine of sorts. Waking up early and hangover-free, we watched the sunrise over jagged limestone mountains. During the day, we were scuba diving or exploring the surrounding mountains. At sunset, we would snorkel with turtles feeding on coral.

By the evenings, we were pooped and in bed by 8 pm. The only exception was New Year's Eve, when Leisa sang karaoke with the hotel manager till the early hours. It felt good to be busy again, and perhaps more importantly, I didn’t have time to feel sorry for myself.

Siquijor

Travelling between islands in the Philippines takes time. After a taxi, boat, tuk tuk, boat and another tuk tuk, we arrived in Siquijor, a small, remote island nestled between Cebu, Negros and Bohol. We booked a small bungalow that overlooked the surrounding jungle and ocean. It was a 30-minute scooter ride to the nearest town, but the peace was well worth the journey.

Our accommodation was rumoured to have the island's best restaurant, and as usual, I ordered the chicken adobo. Compared to previous adobos, this one tasted fresher and spicier. The owner told us most of the ingredients came from the garden, including the chicken.

We awoke to the sounds of the jungle and set off for our morning scuba dive. I was nervous about riding a scooter because I couldn’t put much weight on my foot. Thankfully, the roads were quiet. Soon enough, I was gripped by a familiar combination of mild anxiety and euphoria one experiences riding a scooter in Southeast Asia.

In the days that followed, we established a routine: scuba diving in the morning, enjoying a hearty lunch, and unwinding in the afternoon. In the evenings, we sat at the restaurant to watch the sunset over the ocean and jungle. I would order a fruit shake while Leisa opted for a beer. However, I consistently received the beer, and Leisa got the fruit shake.

On our final day in Siquijor, we took the bike to explore the other side of the island. Passing through rice paddies and small towns, we stopped at waterfalls, Spanish colonial churches and a very picturesque beach. It was peak tourist season, but it still didn’t feel busy.

Siquijor is in transition. I’m glad we opted for remote accommodation as some areas felt overrun by construction. For now, Siquijor remains the quieter alternative to Cebu or Bohol, but I’m sure this will change in the coming years.

Bohol

We caught the early morning ferry from Siquijor to Bohol. Upon reaching Tagbilaran, the main city, we encountered construction noise, litter, and touts. Fortunately, our hotel had organised a pickup to meet us at the ferry terminal.

The driver immediately asked about our plans in Bohol and if we needed a driver. Our short answer was maybe, but this guy seemed pushy. Unfortunately, he was the only driver option for guests at the hotel. We reluctantly agreed on the condition that we chose our stops.

What eventuated was a tour, and anywhere outside the main attractions was off limits. After some negotiation, we convinced the driver to stop at a nearby waterfall (for an extra fee). People were climbing the falls and jumping off. Climbing wasn’t an option for me, so we opted for swimming. The current was strong, but there were ropes that we used to pull ourselves under the waterfall and into a small cave.

After the waterfall, we visited the Tarsier Sanctuary. Clearly, the Tarsiers had been placed in assigned trees for prime photo opportunities. The Tarsiers were cute, but the experience felt more like a zoo than a sanctuary.

Going in, we knew Bohol would be more touristy, but we thought it would be easy to get off the beaten track. We were wrong. Our day trip in Bohol didn’t go to plan, but sometimes, that’s travelling.

Cebu City #2

After two weeks limping around the Visayan islands, I was back in Cebu City for the return flight. To my surprise, I wasn’t thinking about booze or meat nearly as much as when I first arrived. Unintentionally, I had been doing a lot of replacement. Swapping beers for fruit shakes, boozy sunsets for sunrises and swimming in the ocean instead of running.

Even resisting lechon became easier, in large part, due to my newfound addiction to chicken adobo. That said, there was a lechon restaurant near our accommodation and on our last night, I decided to treat myself.

Using every ounce of restraint, I only ordered a quarter kilo of lechon for Leisa and I to share. The food was amazing, but the real highlight was watching the staff perform Happy Birthday for another table. In true Filipino fashion, this was a fully choreographed affair with dance moves and soaring harmonies.

I found Filipino’s to be expressive, family-oriented and yet very open to outsiders. It makes sense that their people are also their biggest export. When I arrived, I was weighed down by intrusive thoughts and the pain in my foot. I left the Philippines feeling positive, clear-headed and full of chicken adobo.